In the not-so-distant past, eggs were given a bad reputation due to their high cholesterol content. More recently, however, nutritional science has determined that the type of cholesterol is also important, and though eggs contain some LDL (bad) cholesterol, they contain HDL (good cholesterol), which is linked to reduced risk of cardiovascular disease. Eggs are also packed with important nutrients like choline, vitamin D, B vitamins, zinc, and vitamin K, as well as lutein, which is important for ocular health, and lots of protein.
This week’s recipe takes us to Italy to enjoy luxurious carbonara. The recipe was sent to CCSA as part of a series of emails from our resident chef, Dr. Linda Doody. She has been sharing her extensive collection of favorite recipes with friends, family, and the CCSA team as a means of maintaining connections during the COVID-19 pandemic.
“Life is a combination of magic and pasta.”
Federico Fellini
Carbonara
Epicurious, Oretta Zannini de Vita and Maureen B. Fant (February 2014), excerpted from Sauces & Shapes: Pasta the Italian Way (2013)
Notes
Although thought of as a typical Roman dish, carbonara (meaning “charcoal burner”) is said to come from a dish made in the Apennine mountains of the Abruzzo by woodcutters who made charcoal for fuel. They would cook the dish over a hardwood charcoal fire and use penne rather than spaghetti because it is easier to toss with the eggs and cheese.
The majority of chefs agree that “true” carbonara contains guanciale and not bacon or pancetta. Most, but not all, say no cream should be added, and just about everyone says that under no circumstances do mushrooms or peas belong in carbonara.
Ingredients
- 4 ounces guanciale, cut into ¼ inch dice (guanciale [guancia means cheek] is a salt-and-spice-cured, unsmoked, Italian bacon prepared from pork jowl or cheeks. It can be difficult to find since FDA has banned imports of this product from Europe; however, US and Canadian sources exist. Pancetta, a mild, salt-cured, unsmoked, Italian bacon made from pork belly, can be substituted but has less fat and pork flavor, changing the taste of the final dish. Bacon, made from pork back or belly, is smoked and should not be substituted)
- 2 generous Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, preferably lightly fruity (there is disagreement over whether or not olive oil should be added to this dish. Instead, the guanciale can be put in a cold pan and then heated slowly to render enough fat to brown it)
- 3 Tbsp kosher salt
- 3 to 4 large eggs (or 2 eggs + 2 yolks), at room temperature (obtain the freshest eggs possible, preferably from backyard or free-range chickens; the yolks will be yellow orange. The number of eggs and the use of whole eggs vs. yolks varies widely among recipes. Using more yolks makes for a richer sauce, but can dull the flavors of the cheese and pork)
- 10 rounded Tbsp freshly grated pecorino romano, or half pecorino romano and half parmigiano-reggiano
- Freshly ground black pepper
- ¾ to 1 pound pasta (the traditional pasta for this dish is spaghetti, with bucatini a close second. Penne and rigatoni are sometimes used since the shorter pasta is easier to mix successfully with the eggs and cheese)
- Reserved pasta cooking water (optional)
Instructions
- Put the guanciale or pancetta and oil in a large skillet. Sauté over medium heat until the edges are just turning brown, about 2 minutes. Do not let the meat get too crisp. Set the pan and its contents aside but keep warm.
- Break the eggs into a small bowl and add all the cheese and a generous grinding of pepper. Whisk gently until the mixture is smooth. (Note: Warm the egg and cheese mixture by sitting a ramekin in a dish of boiling water as if you were making custard. This will help ensure that the finished dish will have a creamy texture.)
- Meanwhile, bring 5 quarts of water to a boil in an 8-quart pot over high heat. When the water boils, add kosher salt, then add pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente.
- Drain the pasta (reserving a cup of the cooking water, keeping it warm) and put it in the skillet with the guanciale over low heat. Toss quickly to mix well. Place the skillet on a warming plate or transfer the pasta to a bowl over a double boiler and pour the warm egg and cheese mixture in a stream into the pasta. Toss the pasta with 2 wooden spoons to blend all the contents, working quickly so that the heat of the pasta cooks the eggs just enough to make a creamy sauce. If needed, mix in a bit of the reserved warm pasta cooking water to smooth things out. Transfer to individual heated bowls or plates and serve immediately.